Dry Tortugas

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Dry Tortugas – 70 miles away from Key West, in the middle of the vast ocean. A fort was built here in 1930s, and used as a prison during Civil War, now a national park. Our snorkeling here, around the fort walls, and over to the coral head was wonderful. We felt the change of temperatures in different areas of the water,  swam over big conch laying on the white sand, blinded by schools of fish, and amazed by the torpedo like giant fish resting at the bottom of the sea. Although I was fascinated by the history of this place, I was more amazed by all the living creatures that exist in the same planet where we dwell as well. They have their own styles, rules, thinking, way of living, reacting, communicating. They might die fast, they might give birth to a thousand of babies, their world might be tiny, they might own the whole ocean or forest…I think sometimes we forget how big the planet is, and we forget others are living, breathing too.

海龟神岛和Key West的旅行

我们的旅行在八月。弗罗里达热浪滚滚。但我们还是大方地让海风吹让烈日晒,因为假期短暂,因为人生短暂,因为一起共度的时光比人生更短暂。

Key West小城

各种蜥蜴,各种热带低矮的房屋,绿植环绕,私密休闲,各种曲盘或笔直的热带植物。树荫下,海风和海的味道浓烈清新。太阳下,烘烤燃烧流汗的全身,一些意识上的包袱仿佛随汗也流走蒸发了。海是热的,鸟儿们停靠发呆。远处是无尽更广阔的世界,眼前一杯古巴咖啡,一张绿色巨蜥过马路,白胡子的胖子骑电动摩托。

Dry Tortugas 海岛一日

美国最南端的最后一个海岛,还要往西70英里的地方,有个岛叫dry tortugas,名字是海龟的意思,前面加了个“干”字,是因为岛上没有淡水。这个岛不大,周边有两个小岛,时而与其连接。1846年左右, 美国人开始在岛上建一所五角型的防卫碉堡,想把住墨西哥湾的重要位置。蓝图上碉堡有三层,有一百门大小炮。然而工程开始30年后,还没有完成。内战期间,碉堡被当做监狱使用,犯人中有刺杀林肯总统有牵连的人,被流放到这遥远得不能再遥远的地方,20年,30年,甚至50年。最终碉堡被遗弃,后又被开放,设为美国国家公园,每天有游船Yankee Freedom载100多乘客上岛,潜水,晒太阳,观鸟。也有私人快艇,航船和飞机停靠。

我们登上了碉堡的旧城墙,俯瞰整个碉堡,大约有工体足球场大小,四边茫茫无际的大海。边上两个小岛是禁区,栖息各种海鸟。我们顺碉堡的人工护城河墙慢慢浮潜,海下的城墙上变为珊瑚驻扎生长的倚靠,古老的码头铁柱在海底成为鱼儿聚集的地方。浮在最顶层的是又长又细的银色小剑雨,扑面而来的是成千上万的小银鱼,手触及之处,鱼群散开,但霎时间又呼面而来,挡住了观看其它鱼儿的视线。荧光闪闪的热带鱼儿也很普遍,当巨大的鱼儿擦肩而过,突然激发了恐惧感,然而它们仿佛再悠闲不过。往海底更深处看去,隐隐的有炮弹一样雄壮的大鱼,再深处就是陷入深蓝色的未知。

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